A traditional nativity scene

Sicily is one of the favourite summer destinations for tourists from all over the world, that’s for sure. Thanks to its beautiful beaches, its unspoilt nature and crystal clear water it couldn’t be any different. There’s a lot more to discover and enjoy about the island, far from summer, sand and sun: the towns of Sicily are lively in autumn and winter, especially during the holiday season.

Starting from November every town, from the capital to the smallest country hamlet, gets completely transformed, and immersed in a unique atmosphere: the smoke coming from the carts of caldarrostai (peddlers selling roasted chestnuts) enshrouds the streets, starting from October, and then in late November Christmas markets start sprouting all over the city centres.

Wandering across their stands you’ll find all the things you would expect, cotton candy, candied fruit and toys, along with all the things that mean Christmas around here. First of all you’ll notice painted wood statuettes of peasants, angels, sheep, beside statuettes of Baby Jesus, Virgin Mary and so on: they’re the characters of the presepe, the representation of the nativity scene that every Sicilian family creates for Christmas along with the more familiar Christmas tree.

Christmas markets are the best place to taste some typical Sicilian street food, depending on the town you’ll visit you can find several street recipes: if you’re in the capital you have to try at least one bite of pani ca’ meusa (a bun filled with slices of cooked cow spleen and cheese), but what Sicilians love the most is eating calia e simenza (chickpeas and pumpkin seeds) while walking beside the stands of the market, so why don’t you give it a go? You’ll find carts selling it anywhere!

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